Reviews

La Manual Alpargatera

The façade of La Manual Alpargatera is a symbol of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, both for locals and tourists. Actually, as I contemplate it coming up from Avinyó street, I feel as if looking at an old postcard that pays homage to a past that, fortunately, coexists timidly but in harmony with our present. Surrounded by stores that have been born in a different century, this emblematic store-workshop still has the big black letters that, on the white wall, announce –imposing and likable- the existence of a place where tradition survives with pride and dignity.

Whatever way we chose to get here, from Avinyó or Ferran –both coming from Plaça Sant Jaume and Ramblas-, the thing is that we will be aware of the presence of La Manual Alpargatera even before we reach its door. The establishment arouses such admiration among passers-by –most of them tourists- that there are always some people gathered in front of the shop windows who snoop through its glasses. The shop windows are three huge windows that show –apart from the typical espadrilles, real “abarcas” from Menorca, footwear for babies and children, walking sticks and other items I can’t remember now- the interior of a well preserved establishment in which the artisan tradition is shown in every product we see. The tile mosaic between two of the shop windows is a brief explanation of the activity carried out in this workshop founded at the end of the Spanish civil war in the early forties.

As we walk in, on our left hand side, there is a huge set of wooden shelves crammed with espadrilles of different colours and sizes. The scene is to be contemplated for a while. One of the shop assistants, who I believe are members of the founding family, interrupts my thoughts in order to know if she can help me in any way. I tell her I’m just having a look. And so I do have a look. I see that, apart from espadrilles –the speciality of this genuine artisan workshop- and similar footwear, there are straw hats, cane baskets and boxes, a little bit of everything all around the place. I pay attention to the walls as well, covered with paintings, pictures and pottery plates, and to the two wooden benches on which customers sit to try shoes on. A big arcade separates the store from the workshop that, still within the customers’ field of vision, is full of things among which, at first sight, I only discern shoe boxes.

The interesting thing about this establishment is not only that it has managed to survive the passing of time while keeping all its essence, but also that the humble origin of this footwear that at the beginning was only used by peasants, has been left aside and forgotten with time to the extent that today, espadrilles (either hand-made or machine-made with natural fibres) have no sex nor age –and even less are related to a job- and are common in the wardrobe of the most general and heterogeneous public. Going to La Manual Alpargatera at the end of spring to get a few new pairs for the summer is a pleasure for lots of locals.